______ the diy laserline ______

I have a project that requires a laser line that creates a line on a 3D object in order to mark and cut it precisely to some extent.
I have attached some pictures and materials I use (
Materials I have not used)
There are still some shots after completion.
But let\'s get started, this is what you need **(
Some parts are just things around me and can be replaced with other random things like that, but we\'ll talk about this later. )Solder iron -
I can no longer emphasize how important a good soldering iron is!
I bought a great one recently (. . .
Start this project)
I can highly recommend this. Heatgun (
Do the work clean and tidy with shrink tube)
If you don\'t mind the cable, it\'s not necessary.
SaladTap and mold group * HacksawDremelAngle grinder/cutter * small hex and star screwdriver (
Free up your HDD brushless motor)
Small visedilllill drill bits of various sizes (for Metal)
Countersunk hole for drilling cutter (
In my case there is a 3 \"Milwaukee hole bulldozer and a variable hole cutter that can be adjusted according to the size of the motor)
Beltsander desktop (
Although the work is done by hand sanding, it is very useful and does not need, it only takes longer)Some sandpaper (220 ish -320)
Small set of square protective equipment: Faceshield! Gloves! *(
If you do a different design for the laser line housing, you may not need)
You might have an old hard drive, right?
Great, bring it here, take the hard drive out, take it apart and get it to the motor. Laser (
I have a very cheap one (4)
You bought it for your cat before. . .
I don\'t know. I fired two of them and the two just stopped working.
And, no matter what, the laser is not so good.
I also tried to get some DVD lasers out, but was unlucky.
Either the laser is not working or the light is not what I want (
If you decide to do the entire DVD Laser, remember to leave the laser in the radiator as it gets very hot.
The other option is to buy the package to keep the laser diode, but at this price you have got a laser with the housing :)
This is the laser I got.
A piece of material board (About 7mm thick)Nuts and Bolts (
Fix the motor on the pellet board and board, fixed on the shell)
Epoxy glue hook needle clip (
It took me a long time to know the name of that thing. . . )(
If you use them like I do, take more of what I broke. . .
Ceiling Lamp (
This is what I use. . .
The only important thing is that the two bodies must meet in a straight line)Unused mouse (
For the dual AA battery pack I use it to test the laser and you don\'t actually need it)
12v power supply (
Could be computer power, hard drive power in my case)10A ESC (
Electronic speed controller
Cable heat shrink Tube tester (various sizes)casing (
Whether it\'s convenient or found in the store
Switch crocodile clip for 2 connecting cables (
Test and test the stepping circuit board with adjustable 12v (
About $2 on ebay in Chinaso yeah, do it! )
OK, this is my first explanation. . .
After reading and watching so many hours of videos on that site, I finally contributed something (
Hope is useful enough. . . )
My goal is to make a laser line from zero to projectCand cut it later.
3D objects in the slice, I decided to solve this challenge because I needed these cuts.
Who else does not like to play laser? Lets get to it.
When I first started, I watched all the videos on Youtube to run the hard drive and how to use the DVD laser.
I learned a lot, but did I get it to work? HELL NO.
After many attempts and about 4 DVD drives I gave up the idea of re-using the laser for this device.
I started doing experiments with cat laser.
I tell you, those things are rubbish.
I am (
My bad news, 2 people stopped working at work.
In any case, I decided to buy a stronger laser and take it out of the shell to fit my design.
I removed the whole piece and left only the laser/radiator and mini circuit board.
To do this, you have to unscrew the entire \"pen \".
Press the button all the way so you can slide out the entire component. (
Maybe push it back left and right with a pencil)
The button is not done for me because and-
The contact is right in front and I just cut the end of the board. . . Thats right -
Cut off that B!
Note: Therefore, please make sure to leave the small resistor there, cut the circuit board immediately after the button and fix the resistor on the laser.
Got the laser out of the shell?
Great. Let\'s move on. I took a mouse.
I took it apart too, but it was not used because the laser spread to a lot of places
Because I need a 2 battery pack to provide about 3v power for the laser.
Using dremel, I cut out the plastic pieces with batteries and polished the corners with a Sander.
I finally got this ugly thing. (
Don\'t judge, at least it works)
Now, weld the wires-
On the battery pack, fix the debris using a Shrink tube.
I also glued the entire cable to the plastic box (using epoxie)
, Because I \'ve been tearing the cableway from all the moves around.
Note: I think I used a laser battery and a 12v power supply, but then I was not happy with this solution, it\'s just a waste of resources because I have to replace the batteries and charge them. . .
So in the end I got a 12v lower stepping motor which solved my problem and actually I didn\'t need the battery pack at all. (
I will still keep it for testing purposes, which is very helpful)
Use a switch to turn the laser on and off, find out which one is the plus and minus sign, and use the soldering iron to weld the plus and minus sign to minus sign in a short time, otherwise, you will melt the plastic around the switch contacts.
To complete the laser assembly, I used a plastic tube to cut the groove inside the tube so that the laser circuit board can be safely installed and stay there.
Finally, I stuck the shrink cable to a notch I cut to make sure everything was in place.
So now that we have the laser, we can go back to the HDD brushless motor.
I \'ve watched almost all the Youtube videos on how to run these things.
Why is everything so complicated?
I bought an ESC, the first one (20A)
None of my hard drive motors do F * all (
I have had quite a few damaged HDD motors so far)
Of course I didn\'t give up there and ordered another one (2A)
Actually effective! (
You can find the link to the item in the parts list)
I plug the ESC into the 12v power supply and add and subtract in the propper position.
Three small colored cables that stretch out and end with a micro connector enter the servo tester, and in any connection marked \"out\" it lights up in blue when it works.
The 3 black cables coming out of ESC will be connected to the motor.
To find out that 3 of the 4 connections on the motor are what you need, you can experiment repeatedly by soldering 4 wires 1 to each connection and rotating the wires at the other end, until you hear the motor beeping. (
Use crocodile clips and cables to make the process easier)
Please also make sure that the wires do not cross-touch during testing as this will result in short/incorrect readings and the motor will not move.
When it starts to beep, you reach your goal.
At this point, mark the cable (
I colored them)
Unlock the useless things hanging around (
This will be common)
To test if the motor is working, start turning the dial on the servo tester slowly to the direction of the arrow.
Servo tester (dial knob)has to be off.
After the beep, it works when you use the dial ring. You used the damaged hard drive to get the motor, right?
It\'s good because we need a mirror that will give us the laser line.
As we all know, we will have a laser spot.
I guess, since HDD discs are almost mirrored, why not use them?
Use dremel again (
And faceprotection)
Cut a piece from the disc.
Size is about 1,5x4 cm. Use Beltsander to straighten the corner and the fixed square to the square as much as possible.
If you\'re not doing it right for the first time, don\'t worry about having two or three discs in your hard drive. . .
It\'s not necessarily perfect, but the more accurate the better. (
Even just for appearance)
The next step is the installation of the motor.
Using a particle board, start with the automatic cutting diameter.
I made a perfect round shape outside with an inch Hale bulldozer and an adjustable hole knife to accommodate the motor base.
If appropriate, mark the holes on the motor on the pellet board and drill the diameter holes of the same size.
This will keep your motor in place.
After drilling, be sure to turn the workpiece and sink the hole so that the Bolt does not reach out to the bottom.
You want that dress to be flat.
Now connect the motor to the wood using small nuts and bolts.
What\'s missing, right? RIGHT.
You need to connect the mirror to the top of the motor.
I need something that fits tightly on the head of the motor, so when it rotates I don\'t have an uneven motion that swings (
And fast! )
I found out that this gear came from the old mixer that I took apart once and it was very comfortable, just like it was made for it.
You need to find something like that, or try to stick the mirror directly to the motor, which I think is possible, but won\'t give you much surface to support it.
I cut the gap in the size of the mirror, right in the middle.
Later, I drew the holes that have been milled at the top of the hard drive motor. It had 6 (. . .
I think they all have
However, some people end up under the plastic stripe that supports the gears, so I decided to use only 3 and leave a hole between them.
After fixing it with the bolts attached to the hard drive, I stuck the mirror in place with 2 components Epoxie and a small set square.
You want it to be as vertical as possible!
After the laser and motor work successfully, it\'s time to combine them and throw out awesome laser lines!
For the te case, I used the ceiling light case I placed.
Optional, I have a coffee can which seems to be fine, but I think I end up bending whle\'s stuff and breaking the straight line when I cut it.
So either I need a second one or I need something else.
The ceiling light is perfect as there is already a stand around it and I can use the s gasket.
The only question now is: what do I use for the spacing section? Trailer pin clip! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !
I recently made some hooks with these guys, bending and threading according to my needs, and it worked well.
So I bought six (
Although I only need three, you never know. . . )
Back in my studio, I cut off the curled parts with dremel and started getting them straight with the help of pliers, hammers and good old vise.
I want to have a 90 ° bend angle of thread on both sides, so one side is located in the bottom shell while connecting and keeping the upper part of the shell using the plastic ring already in place.
I give it the angle it wants with a hammer and a hammer.
I gave the angle of the thread with the faucet and the mold so that the angle is not threaded.
After assembling the whole thing, it is clear that the idea is generally good, but there is only one big flaw.
Case Support perfectly keeps the circle of the top case, while the bottom case is at the angle-
Screwed into the gasket, resulting in uneven lines between the top and bottom housing.
I have to take tough steps and drill holes after each bracket.
After that, I removed the bracket, separated it, and put the individual parts back in place with screws.
I also drill holes on the right side of the angle bracket at the top, basically adding adjustable deformation of the top shell that matches the bottom.
It\'s a bit complicated, but the \"hey\" effect is surprisingly good!
Now just need to mark where the laser is, cut half a hole on the bottom box and make sure it points to the center of the mirror.
In order to find out if the position is correct, you have to start the laser and the motor.
If you see the full top lip of the bottom shell filled with laser, you are doing a good job, you can assemble the laser in place using epoxie.
Make sure you\'re there when it\'s dry and running, so it doesn\'t change the position.
Once the eboxie around the bottom of the laser dries ,(
Maybe five more minutes)
You can start installing the shell at the top in place and adjust the angle-screw-spacers (
This is the thing now! )
You really just need to have a little crack between the pieces and the laser will find it no problem.
To test the size of the gap you left between the two outer shells, simply run the laser in a slightly dark room and you\'ll see if you need to put the pieces closer together.
Last but not least, connect the whole thing so that it is not only a place where the cable is in chaos, but also a device that is a bit available.
It depends on you, how long do you want his cable to be emitted from the motor or laser.
So it\'s over to you.
The final step now is to show you how I put everything together to make this project a compact device that I can easily use, and it doesn\'t look too bad either.
First I got a box (
Bought in an electronic second-hand store for $4)
I just stumbled upon it and thought: Well, that might fit-
Very interesting. . it did.
I used three main components to connect everything together. (
Part description lsit)
1 ESC1 servo tester1 12v frequency reduction with these components, I make sure: the motor runs and has enough power, the laser is powered on, but will not run out because the voltage is too large, the servo tester adjusts/adjusts the speed of the ECS.
In addition, I also used two independently-activated switches, a laser or motorcycle, and corrosion LEDs that show that the switch is in the \"on\" position.
Basically, the power supply is via a computer connector (white)
Each pole on the other side of 12V connects two cables.
There is a positive reversal of the 12v down stepping motor.
The other side of the downward step is connected to the switch, which is connected with LED and laser.
So if you \"turn on\" The laser and the led signal, the switch is on.
The other plus and minus cable is first connected to the switch and the switch turns on the ESC and the servo holder that adjusts the motor and motor speed.
Actually the LED is running from the servo motor platform, where I took out a blue LED and replaced it with a green LED.
I took something from the servo motor and let it fit in place.
I cut off the \"In\" wire that allows you to connect on the other side of the \"out\" connection.
I took out two other blue LEDs just to save on the cost of other projects. . . .
I remove the knob, pass the part through the hole and reconnect the knob.
Most of the connections are reinforced with shrink tubes to prevent the cable from breaking and often make the cable look better.
Congratulate you on your success!
Here\'s a Youtube video showing how laserline looks in action.
I hope you enjoyed the instructions.
I would like to have a look at your laserline version.
Post some pictures here and let me know what\'s going on with it.
Please leave a comment if you have a problem, I am here to help.