self leveling shoes - self leveling laser

This project was directly inspired by the machine workshop of the Autodesk Terminal 9 workshop.
Many of the machines here are supported on the ground by machine leveling brackets.
Even if their legs or floors are not flat, these help to keep the machinery at constant levels.
I was wondering why this innovation has never been used on a shoe, at least as far as I know it is!
In a city like San Francisco that has many hills, a shoe that can only keep your feet at constant levels can also be an advantage.
Maybe these parts have never been used on the sole before for good reason (Sprained ankle? ). . . Let's find out!
On the group Project day at Pier 9, I started testing the level
Install the theory by making Geta-inspired wooden sandals, which include a horizontal installation on each foot under the toe: a heavy metal installation was used, the action was very loose and easy to slide.
I think it would be more helpful to have a mount with a tougher movement so it would be easier to balance.
In addition, it is difficult for this metal to connect the rubber handle.
I found that you can buy a bracket made of aldehyde, which is harder to move and should be easier to add some dirt material.
For this sample project, I will do a quick and basic mock-up of the shoes.
I will use professional tools as little as possible.
What you need: a pair of shoes (to make close-toed shoes)
The pattern you designed (
Please see my other instructions-www. instructables. com/id/Make-Your-Own-Shoe-Patter. . . )
Leather and woven materials of your choice-
An exterior for liningA sewing machine and a punchBelt/disc sander for power shoe glue surgical knife or craft knife pliers/pincerstackswencechelling mountain sole and sole material holes I think it would be best to make sure they follow the workshop rules --
You have to cover your feet!
This means that there are no open-toe sandals like the test shoes I did before.
The insole and midsole will be made of handle plate material, both of which are rigid and have some flexibility.
I thought about using wood, but it's hard to wear shoes.
I will use 6 leveling racks connected via several layers of insole and sole material bolts.
The Upper will be made of sturdy brown canvas, which is usually made from the same material as the work clothes.
I have a natural colored pigskin lining for comfort and breathability.
Show your pattern on the material you choose, mark it with a pen, and then cut or cut directly from the paper sample.
I am using canvas so I need to add a fold allowance to my material to fold the edges to prevent any worn edges.
Glue and stitch the leather lining to the outside of the canvas.
Decorate excess leather from the top.
I added brass rivets in a key place to increase the strength.
You can sew a small box here to reinforce it if you want.
I also added a small leather label to the heel of the upper to enhance my strength and continue my work like aesthetics.
The upper is now ready for long lasting.
My shoes need to go through the holes in the sole to fit the level-mounts.
I will prepare these first.
I made an insole pattern for my shoes.
From this point on, I can decide where to place my horizontal mount.
Once I decide where to put them, I will mark my sole pattern so I can place the holes all the time.
Cut off your insole and use your pattern to help place and punch holes.
To get extra rigidity, I chose to use a two-layer Texon branded cellulose board and a reinforced "stand" board.
Stick these together.
"Last" is the process of placing and stretching the shoe upper to the end and connecting it to the insole.
Fix your insole to the last one so it's safe and won't move. Start arranging your upper to the last one and place a big nail at the toe to keep the item in its position.
Apply glue at the heel (seat)first.
Fold the leather to make it smooth and fit to the end.
Remove the stickiness at the toe and glue the front.
Use the folds again to make them as smooth and tight as possible.
When you go, check that the position of the shoe is not in the middle of the last move around the shoe (waist).
Repeat the steps of the external canvas.
You can remove any creases with a hammer.
If it helps, you can use the big head nail to help locate the material when you finally use it.
Remove all the studs from the insole.
Once your upper continues and is happy with their position, you can connect the sole in this case.
This adds some strength but is mostly decorative.
I have cut heavy leather pieces for my outsole and punch holes in flat places
The bracket will be inserted.
Glue the last piece to the bottom of the leather and beat it with a hammer.
Trim excess leather from the side with a knife.
Finish on a grinding wheel or Dremel until smooth I suggest putting the shoes in the last 24 hours to keep the leather in its shape. I have cut out the Vibram rubber sole and
Stick these on my plastic. Mount for grip.
Screw in the bracket and use the NUT to adjust the depth in the soleCut to remove some leather into the shoe (sock)
This will prevent you from feeling the holes we use for screws.
You can wear your own flat shoes now!
I will do a wear test on this design concept to see if it can be used as a shoe.
Watch this space for version 2.