make a self level laser (sll) - self leveling laser

by:UMeasure     2019-08-20
make a self level laser (sll)  -  self leveling laser
Hello everyone!
Today, I will show you how I made a self-streaming laser on cheep!
I had this idea for a while, but I didn't find the time until now.
If you are interested in making one, I suggest downloading all the files and reading everything before any attempt.
The goal of the first attempt is to make a low-cost unit. Easy to make. Easy to use. Stand-Alone, no Microcontroller. To be portable.
Use the internal battery instead of replacing it when dry.
Can run for a long time.
Use common materials as much as possible.
Use of cross line laser-in-one.
Be accurate at any time.
When placed on a non-horizontal plane with up to 20 ° laser locking position capability, it is possible to operate. To be able (So the unit of the laser)
Turn 360 ° vertically and horizontally using optional equipment.
Diagonal projection when rotating the unit by hand.
MaskingtapeHot glue gun adhesive tapeSuper glue stick adhesive iron welded pipe wrench socket wrench tool 5mmUtility kni-rotary tool drill bit 3mm, 2.
5mm, 1mm bit metal cutting disk desktop luler90 degree metal L-
8 cm x 3 PCs PCB Board 5. Square angle rule engineering compassphillip screwdriver scissors. 5cm x 5.
5 cm x 1 piece of PCB plate shape 6.
The diameter of the triangular PCB board is 5 cm x 1.
8 cm x 4 cm x 1 piece (see pictures)
PCB board small parts x 8 washers (M3)
X 7-12 washers (M8)
PieceA screw for a month (M3)
3mm point hex x 500mm cm x1 pieceSecure nut (M3)
Wing nut screw x 15 pieces (M8)
X 1 pieceHex threaded male/female nickel-
Plated brass gasket with M3 height 20. 00mm internal 8. 00mm external 8.
00mm x4 threaded male head/female nickel
Plated brass gasket with M3 height 10.
00mm internal 10.
00mm external 10.
00mm x12 joint threaded male/female nickel-
Plated brass gasket with M3 high 12.
00mm internal 10.
00mm external 10.
00mm x 4 heads (M6)
Bolt x 10mm long x 1 head (M8)
Bolt x 25mm long x 2 PCs hexagonal head (M8)bolt x 10-
15mm x 1 piece (M3)
Screw x 6mm x 6 pieces (M3)
Screw x 30mm long x 2 pieces aluminum or steel 18mm x 55mm long x 1 piece 1-1 metal1.
5mm thick x 45mm long x 12mm wide, must be strong enough not to bend by hand.
Allen-driven flat head screws (M4)
X 10mm long x 2 piece screw spikes for leather medium size 10mm x 1 piece without skin rest wire 0,5-1mm x 50mm long x1 piece tube 4mm diameter x 20mm long
5mm thick x 20mm outer diameter. x 4-5mm inner dia.
Bubble White (optional)
If you can afford to buy 10-20mW cross-
Line laser with maximum 4VDC. A 18650 3.
Battery caseA 18650 battery USB charger A 3-
Pin SPST slide switch or 8-
Pin DPDT slide switch. Read the (Slide switch)section.
White LED (USB plug)optional)
SMD 100 ohm resistance (optional)
About 10 cm speakers cableI chose to use the Flipboard as building material because it is light, thin, strong enough and reasonably cheap to cut easily using a tool knife and glue the pieces between them using a soldering iron, can be welded repeatedly if needed.
Of course, you can use any material that best suits you.
It can be wood, metal plate, plexiglass and so on.
If you are going to use a conductive metal material, make sure that the M3 gasket with lower insulation or nylon gasket is used because the gasket will carry the voltage from the battery!
What is shown in the picture is the prototype as a reference, but the given size is slightly different from the drawing, so please stick with the numbers.
For convenience, I have provided enough pictures that anyone can pay attention.
So let's get started!
The idea is: what I think of is the gravity of the Earth and a heavy object with a laser moving freely on both axes.
Because not everything in life is perfect, this is a diy project where things may not be perfect and need to be coordinated.
This can be done by using 2 extra weights that will be 2 x M8 bolts out of 2 shafts.
One back and forth and the other for left and right.
By screwing/screwing the M8 Bolt, we can now align the laser in both vertical and horizontal positions.
It is a square aluminum or steel bar 18mm x 55mm long.
If your choice is steel, then you know how hard it is to work from the beginning.
As a material, it is heavier and requires heavier adjustment screws (HEX M8 x 25mm)
Or a longer one that is not appropriate in our case.
It is easier to use aluminum if you choose aluminum and need (M8-M6)
Adjust the screws.
I had to buy a 5 m aluminum stick and cut only one piece 55mm long so my next option was steel as material.
Making laser carrier (bar)
I went to a machine store because I didn't have the tools I needed.
The total cost is € 15, which I think is a scary price.
If you don't have the experience of metal processing or tools, it's better to have professionals do their magic like I do, because precision is a must here.
Download the file and follow the steps to make the bar.
The project is to place 4 screws on 4 corners and 4 PCB boards, one on the other.
Cut with a tool knife on each PCB-copper only -
At the corner of 13mm x 13mm per side, make 4 triangles for each PCB.
The traces of these triangles will now be the power cord for the battery, eliminating the use of the cable.
The battery and housing, SPST sliding switch, mother USB connector and charger will be placed on the lower PCB.
I have included a for convenience.
Bitmap file of schematic diagram.
Print the image on the laser printer and use the iron method to transmit the pattern on the PCB. Next – upper -
It is the laser locking mechanism of PCB.
Its purpose is to lock the laser-connected square rod in the appropriate position for manual rotation and also for the safe transfer of the device.
The next board is used for stability, which is where the last PCB will be placed using 4 3mm Philips screws.
Add a white smd led resistor to the bottom of the board so that everything can be seen even in the dark.
Finally, the last plate-the plate at the top-is the one that will connect the square aluminum or steel bars.
If there is a problem with the laser for any reason, remove the shell top cover, unscrew the board, lift it up and remove it from the unit for further maintenance.
In addition, a white smd led resistor is added to the top to prevent air bubbles from being placed at the top of the unit.
In this case, a hole must be opened at the top of the center of the shell. Print the .
Make sure the mp image on the laser printer with dimensions of 8 cm x 8 cm.
Make PCB by iron method.
If you want to reverse the image using other methods.
Drill holes and place parts.
There is nothing important about rabbits other than polarity, so be careful.
Leave 2mm space between the USB connector and the SPST slide switch. Use 2-
Copper wire with thickness of 3mm between PCB and switch.
Test the circuit when you have finished welding all components.
Connect the battery and plug in the USB cable.
If the charger works, then you're done.
Pick up the glue gun and stick the battery box to the D board (see pictures).
The person you cut copper from every corner uses a pencil and draws an X from one corner to the other.
The center of the rod bottom hole must be in the center of the X you have drawn.
Now you know where the screws should be.
Prepare C2, C3, and C4, and drill holes for screws nailed by screws.
Weld C4 with a tube, but make sure the tube is 1mm long from each side.
Assemble C2 washer-C4 washer C3 including M3 screw and two fixing nuts.
Make sure there is enough space so that C4 can rotate freely, and a total of 1mm of the space must be enough.
Mark the rod and cut it.
Weld C2 and C3 from one side to make sure that the screw spike is in the center of the c board.
Welded/not welded C2, C3 until you are satisfied.
On the c board, open the hole of the M3 screw at 3 points.
3 cm from the front center.
Next, make the disc and open a hole in the center of the M3 screw.
Welding of stainless steel wire (see pictures).
Draw an X from one corner to the other with your pencil.
Measure 4 cm from each side and draw a cross.
Use a tool knife to cut copper only after the cross.
Measure 2 cm from each side and draw four lines.
Use a bit with a cutting disc and cut at the location where these four rows are located (see pictures).
After Board A is another six PCB.
Draw an X from the corner to the corner with a pencil.
Measure 22mm from the center like 11 cm-0-11 cm and draw two lines in parallel.
Place A2 and A3 on these two lines and draw another line parallel to mark the thickness of the plate.
Measure about 3mm from the Group of the last line, and draw another line from each side, cutting copper with a tool knife.
Continue this process with four other PCB.
When you cut the copper with a knife, it's time to weld it.
Place A2 and A3 on the board to make sure they are parallel and the holes are fully aligned for the best results.
Solder the boards one by one to make sure they are 90 degrees away from the board.
Download all attached files and print the PCB layout below using the laser printer (D)board.
Print all files/Images, measure and use tool knives to make all PCB by cutting the PCB sheet you purchased.
After cutting all PCB pieces, use sandpaper Nr.
: Smooth edge 100.
Next measure 13mm x 13mm and use a utility knife to cut copper from all corners of the PCB.
Open the M3 hole in all corners to make sure the hex processed gasket is not on the PCB edge.
Perform this procedure where all boards are placed on another board, and if you believe you will not make all the holes in the same place, drill them.
Cut the copper tube into 2 pieces 20mm long, cross and weld with soldering iron. Solder all (A)
Plate parts together.
Find a piece of copper or other metal sheet 1-11.
5mm thick, must be strong enough not to bend with your hands.
You're going to make a U-shaped one.
Cut 1 block-1.
5mm thick x 45mm long x 12mm wide.
Make an M6 hole in the center, measure 11mm-center-11mm and bend the end.
Measure 8mm from the bending point and open the M3 hole at the bending piece (see pictures).
Put the cross pipe you have made on board (A)
, Go through the Phillips M3 x 30mm long screws and cut them where needed, including space for M3 safety nuts.
Use M3 bolts between the tube and PCB, so that the tube can move freely with less space between them.
This is important!
Pass the pipe round rubber through the M6 screw, then pass the U-shaped metal and screws on the top of the square aluminum or steel bar.
Use M3 safety nut-housing-all plates are connected to the gasket starting at a lower height
10mm gasket-board d-20mm gasket-board C-
10mm gasket screw 10mm gasket-plate B-
Case top cover-12mm gasket-M3 secure nuts.
Nd: yag laser for one of the best solutions for connection (A)
The board is using thin ultra-flexible multi-strand lines, like this: in some very good quality headphone manufacturers, this is used due to features in terms of flexibility/strength and frequency response
Flexibility is what we want in our case.
Another solution is to use one or two wires from high quality multi-strand speaker cables.
The disadvantage of using the last method is that the wires may be cut off in time.
Also, since they are very thin wires, there is the same ohm resistance, but when I measured it with a laser, its own cable shows that it attracts 14.
Using the hair wire on the speaker cable, 7 mA at 4VDC instead of 14 mA at 4VDC. So 0.
7 mA is not important for the operation of the laser.
Remove the protective cover from the laser and unlock the welding place of the wire.
Be sure to remember the polarity.
Remove the speaker cable and remove the insulator.
Remove two thin wires from about 10 cm of the cable and Weld to the plus and minus laser rods.
Cover the laser PCB and wires about 4 cm long with adhesive tape to ensure they are not in contact.
The end of the tape is measured 4 cm and the rest of the wires are cut off.
Insert the laser into the square aluminum or steel bar so that the optical element is outside the steel bar and tighten the M4 screw to secure the laser.
Weld the end (A)
Make sure the positive pole of the laser changes from the battery to the positive, and they are on the same side.
Continue welding the negative pole.
I use two SMD White LED with two SMD 100ohm resistors.
I purchased the LED from a local store but there was no spec there so I did the measurements myself.
Each LED resistor is connected 40 mA to the hair wire.
The two LED attracted a total of 80 mA.
One set is for cabinets, so it can be seen when the light is insufficient.
The other set is to illuminate the bubble level at the top of the shell again in low light.
Instead of using a normal AA battery, I chose 18650 Li-
Ion protected
These batteries have some great features.
No replacement required as there is a rechargeable protection agentcharge / over-
Load, able to maintain energy for a long time, with a nominal output voltage of 3.
7 V, large capacity, enough money to do diy projects today.
The charger is a good solution, well made and small enough, perfect for this project.
The input voltage is 4-
8VDC, which means it can run from a USB computer port or from any 5VDC device, such as a phone charger.
The output capacity is rated at 1000 mA/h or up to 1A/h.
As you can see, I chose type A female USB 4-
The pin connector is used as input instead of using the connector of the charger itself.
There is a reason for this.
First, the status LED of the charger must be visible to the plexiglass panel.
Second, because the type a USB connector is larger than the micro USB connector, it is easier to open the pin hole on the PCB and weld it.
Finally, since type A is larger than micro A, more stability is provided when soldering the ground pin to the PCB. A simple 3-
Pin slide SPST on/off switch for on/off laser and two LEDs.
DPTD 3 position 8-there is also a second PCB circuit
Pin sliding switch, can turn the laser on, can also turn the laser on with two LED.
Location: laser and all LED-ON / middle -
Turn off/laser on.
Use a small piece of cable to connect the PCB trace to the switch pin one by one. Use 2-2.
Where is the 5mm thick copper wire (sw)
The symbol is on the PCB, by soldering the other end of the wire to the switch chassis, lift the switch above the USB connector.
Collect all parts and assemble the frame.
Test all parts and plates for fit and make any adjustments.
Made of five single sided copper PCB, a piece of 3mm plexiglass and a hex M8 screw.
Bolts with wing nuts on the back of the case can be used with (L)
The lower part can be mounted on the wall bracket on the camera tripod.
If the housing has the required distance from the lower part of the bracket, then it can always rotate 360 degrees with the laser bar in the locked position.
It's easy to draw diagonal lines.
The M8 hex screw of the housing must be horizontal with the center point of the laser.
The housing is 2mm wide from the left, right, and rear as protection for circuits similar to the laser plate.
Twist four hex gaskets on the bottom of the shell to keep the safety and tide of the entire laser structure, and the other two hex gaskets are screwed on the top cover of the shell.
There are two nuts on the side of the top cover, one on the left and the other on the right.
By using the M3 Phillips screws on the left side of the shell and on the battle panel, the plexiglass panel will be tightened in place.
The panel is made of plexiglass. Use the .
Cdr file cut organic glass on laser cutting machine.
There are three drawings to give you the size and also show you how to assemble the shell.
Despite all efforts to draw the parts as accurately as possible, please rely on your own measurements when cutting the PCB board.
If for any reason, the PCB sheet is larger in terms of the specific size at the time of cutting, please use the drill bit with the cutting disc to cut the excess PCB.
Use sandpaper Nr afterwards.
: Smooth edge 100.
Download and print all files.
Of course it will work as is, but the normal PCB box is not the best view, don't you think?
So, remove the parts and start painting after you finish the test and everything.
Cover the corners of the C1 board, C4 board and C5 board and the Rod of the shell with masking tape.
For me, two acrylic enamel spay cans, a yellow cushion and a black cushion gave me the result I wanted.
Apply at least 3 layers of thin paint from a distance of 30 cm to give the time it takes to dry the paint.
Print labels on color laser printers or copiers, cut where needed, and apply glue using glue sticks.
Place the label on the box using the glue stick and apply another 3 layers of thin mat clear varnish to protect the color and label.
Behind the plexiglass, you can place a sheet of paper coated with paint as a front mark for SPST sliding switch functions, etc.
If you want, use the one I made.
Download the file, print it and cut it where needed. That's it!
Now that you 've painted it, it's time to finally assemble the frame.
Here's how it's done step by step.
Searching online, I found out how construction workers built walls and how they built vertical and horizontal lines. vertical (plumb)
The vertical line is the vertical line and the vertical line.
Lead Bob is the tip weight attached to the length of the line used to determine the vertical line. horizontal (level)
For the horizontal line, it is the water level pipe.
Put the water into the tube until it is close to full.
Fix one end in the appropriate position so that the water level is at the desired height and take the other end where it is necessary to mark the guide line at the same height.
The water level at both ends of the tube will always remain at exactly the same height.
In order to align the 6 m or more diameter 1 cm or more transparent tubes purchased by the laser with the lead hammer or the lime made by itself.
Take an old pen, add a few drops of ink in a bucket of water, and fill the tube.
Place the tube on the wall so that the end is about 1 m or more vertical and follow the procedure described above.
First of all, we need to know if the projection center of the Cross
The line is horizontal relative to the laser.
Place one end of the tube in the center of the wall so that the tube will be 1-1. 5 meters high.
Move the other end of the tube as much as possible, lifting one end to the same level as the one end placed on the wall.
Place the device on a stable surface and place one end of the tube in front of the SLL so that a part of the laser reaches where the water level is.
Make sure that part of the beam hits the water level of the wall tube.
Ensure absolute stability at both ends and SLL.
Now, adjust the front M8 hex Rod to keep the beam horizontal with the water at both ends. That's it.
Second, put the tube on the wall so that the two ends can be vertical.
At the horizontal end, measure the center of the tube and place the string line with vertical bob on the wall.
The string Guild gives you absolute vertical (plumb).
Place the unit on the other end of the room and center it with a rope.
By unscrewing/unscrewing the parallel hex M8 rod of the adjustment rod until the laser cross beam is completely vertical and horizontal.
After the alignment is complete, add a drop of instant glue to the HEX M8 rod. That's it!
I have made four drawings of the program and downloaded all the files to see how easy it is. On laser (lens)
When you try to align the laser by adjusting the M8 Bolt, be sure to adjust the Cross
Line lens in front of laser diode.
This project requires patience and precision in production and adjustment, but it is worth a try.
The calibration is perfect and now I have my own self-leveling laser (SLL)
I can do a lot of diy things at home, such as hanging kitchen cabinets. The 5mW cross-
The line laser diode is very obvious in indoor light, but don't expect miracles when the sun shines on the wall. A 10-
The 20mw laser will be better for this project and I am going to try one.
Also, the weight of the whole unit, including wing nuts and washers, does not exceed 500 kg, which may look a lot, but keep in mind that this is the first attempt as it works, so I want to share it with you.
Total consumption, including laser and two LEDs, is no more than 100 mA.
If you choose not to include these two LEDs, the total figure for laser operation will drop to 17 mA.
If you buy one
Ion 18650 battery/2500 mA capacity, then the unit can run for several hours even if it consumes 100 mA of the total.
All the necessary images and drawings are in it. bmp and . cdr format. Download the (
Instructures for Diy automatic laser level. zip)
Compress the file. So, that's it.
Feel free to comment and make suggestions that you think will improve the project.
Please vote if you like this item!
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