laser distance measurer How to Install Crown Molding

by:UMeasure     2019-07-04
Add decoration and molding features to the room to make it feel complete by highlighting its best features.Crown molding not only emphasizes the height of the ceiling, but also creates interest in the building, and adds value to your home.The most difficult aspect of this project is to install the oblique angle correctly, so be careful to measure and testInstall the corner using a template piece.
To determine how many Crown styling decorations to buy, measure the perimeter of the room and increase 20% for possible errorsCutting and corner templates.Remove the curtain rod with cordless bit and spiral bit, and anything else on the wall that may hinder the molding installation.Pull the furniture off the wall so there is enough space to put the ladder.
Mark the studs location of the entire perimeter of the room using the stud finder, about 4-5 inch from the ceiling.Use the laser distance meter, or hold the other end of the tape measure firmly with the assistant, find the exact length of each wall (closest to 1/16 th) and write it down.Use the protractor/angle finder to find the exact angle of each corner of the room and write it down.
Divide each angle into two halves to determine the angle at which the mitchsaw needs to be set when cutting molding.Many families, especially older families, do not have 90-Angle, so make sure to get the exact angle of each angle.If the angle deviates from the square, even 2 degrees, 90 degreesIt is assumed to be a degree angle, which can cause a lot of errorsCuts and setbacks.
This tutorial assumes that the angle is a completely 90-degree square.If the corner is not perfect, be sure to make any necessary adjustments to the angle of your room.In order to get a suitable corner, the template should be made so that you can know how to set up a Mitter saw that fits the corner for each side of the crown shape, just put them in the appropriate position.
.Before cutting, be sure to cut the bottom of the molded material up, so that the flat edges located on the ceiling and walls are flat on the Mitter saw base and fence.Hold it firmly with one hand, cut it once, move the mold down about 1 feet and cut it again.This is the first template.Move the Mitter saw to 45-And repeat the process to get another 1-foot template.
To know which angle is needed for the inside and outside corners of the room, each side of the template needs to be labeled.This will facilitate tracking of the necessary angles for the actual molding to be installed.To do this, place one of the corner templates next to the saw blade and make sure it rests evenly on the saw blade.
The molding sits on the left side of the blade ).The other end of this template should cling to the other side of the blade, so label it, "45 degrees left and right..A label should be "45 degrees on the right, 45 degrees on the left" and "45 degrees on the right ".
Test with template-Install every corner you want to cover.Draw the outline of the room to be molded, and label it with the length of the wall and the angle that needs to be cut.Mark each piece of molding material with the angle type that needs to be cut (E.
, 45 degrees left, left ).
The "scarf joint" is the way two molded materials are connected on a straight (non-inclined) surface.Because the molding is fixed length, there will be two parts on the wall that need to meet and form the seam, so it needs to be at 30-Angle, this way becomes less obvious.Because the total length of the wall may be longer than the length of the crown shape you purchased (I used 12-The length of the foot), the scarf joint is required when two molded materials meet in the center of the wall.
The scarf joint should always be on the bolt so that each end can be securely nailed to the bolt.Determine where the scarf joint will fall along the wall.This will require the bolt position on the wall;To use the mold most efficiently, try to find the closest to 12-The foot length of the stock forming length.
Then measure the length of the two pieces from the scarf joint to the corner, and mark these measurements on a plan drawn from one side of the wall to be reached by the mold.Find the center of the bolt closest to the mark and determine its distance.Unless there is a bolt that is exactly 12 feet off the side of the wall (or how long your molding is), some molding needs to be cut off.
Measure the short edges and record these two measurements on the drawn plan.Plan and double using your drawingCheck all measurements, cut the molding in the way described in step 3, using the template piece as a guide to setting up the saw blade.There, the other end will dock the other piece in the scarf seam, beveled-Cut ends at 30 degrees.
With an assistant, fix the mold in place and nail it into the DingTalk point using the power DingTalk, start in the middle of the workpiece, and then start working.The nail will be driven on the bottom of the molding and on the top lip, so the nail can actually reach into the bolts and the top plate.If the nails are driven in the center of the mold, they will not be able to reach the bolts.
At the scarf joint, put the pieces on one side, so that the exposed texture is on the outward side below the other side.First fix the one below with one nail, then fix the one above with two nails.Using the caulking gun, apply the caulking along the top and bottom seams of the entire perimeter of the Crown styling.
With a wet rag, apply every 1-2 feet on the seam or nail hole, grind the sewn beads with a damp finger, wipe the excess parts with a rag, and keep the fingers clean.Fill the indented nail head with caulk and smooth the excess part with your finger.When drawing a crown shape, it is necessary to "cut horizontally" or paint along the top and bottom of the shape.
If you do not have many years of experience in horizontal painting, the easiest way is to use 2-Inch corner window frame brush horizontal pull brush 3 to 4 inch, then pull down slightly when lifting brush.Then re-Dip the brush, if needed, back to the area where you started to drop down, brush 3 to 4 inch horizontally, and then pull down again when lifting the brush.This "cut-in" approach takes less time to keep a person stable with a horizontal stroke (3 to 4 inch at a time ).
"Cut" along the molded top lip (where it meets the ceiling ".The formed lower lip needs to be painted, but when holding the brush from above, it is difficult to "cut in" When you are located below the crown shape and reach out upwards.To solve this problem, paint the bottom lips and overlap on the wall.
Apply two layers of paint on the mold to make it completely dry.After drying, use the same color as the wall to "cut" at the bottom of the molded ".When used with light, the finished product may be a subtle but elegant additionColored walls as the toneon-The hue looks like the texture is added and the eye is drawn up.
, Clearly define the edge and provide a custom look
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